It’s very important to make sure the work is tightly clamped down while drilling these larger holes, and that you are using good quality sharp bits. Next, the centre hole is enlarged to 1/2″: Clamping the part takes away the chance that it will move while it is being drilled, and increases the accuracy of the operation. It is always a really good idea to follow the best safety procedures, not just for your own well being, but to improve the end result. In the comments following the video, I took some heat for not clamping the work down while drilling it. Getting these accurately located is very important, so extra time spent getting to this point will pay off in the end.Īll six of these holes are then enlarged to 1/4″: Centre punching sets a very precise starting point for the drill bit and makes it less likely to “skate” off the mark:Įach location is then drilled through with a 1/8″ bit:īoth ends with the 1/8″ pilot holes drilled.
How to make a homemade pipe marker driver#
My homemade centre punch is a 3″ driver bit ground down to a point. The marks on each end are centre punched. This produces two marks that are 1/4″ from then centre mark. The centre mark is already in place 3/4″ from the end and the caliper is set to scribe a line 1/2″ from the end: Next, the marks for the 3/8″ dowel cutter are made, at the other end of the bar. This gives three layout lines, the outer ones are 5/16″ from the centre mark. I set the calipers to 1-1/16″ and scratch a line. On this end of the bar, I’m marking for a 1/2″ dowel cutter, as shown in the video. The calipers are set to 3/8″ (half the width of the bar) and a line is scratched along the length of the steel bar.Ī centre line is scribed 3/4″ from each end of the bar, since I’ll be doing two cutters, one on each end: The blue colour is coincidence – any darker colour will work: I gave the part a thin coat and let it dry. I don’t have any of the actual dye, but I do have some regular spray paint that will work nearly as well. Marks are scribed through this to the metal below, giving a very accurate and high contrast layout line. This is typically blue in colour and sprayed on the part and left to dry. In the world of precision metal working, there is a product called machinist’s dye that is used to lay out metal parts. The size of the stock is nominal and the only important dimension is the thickness – it should be at least 1/4″ thick for dowels this size. The length is 8″, which will allow me to make one cutter (1/2″ and 3/8″) on each end. I start with a piece of cold rolled steel, 1/4″ thick and 3/4″ wide.
How to make a homemade pipe marker series#
Given the popularity of the video, I decided to make another dowel maker, this time documenting the project here, with a series of pictures. Maybe I'll bevel the CEG tubes for differentiation.I have had a number of requests to go into this in more detail: material, measurements and drill sizes. I don't anticipate using the filler on the Alto pipes (2nd set). Then I filled the mouth piece spaces between the pipes with wood filler to create a smooth space across the pipes. figure best method of winding twine around the tubes.įor the First pan pipes, I simply Hot Glued the pipes to the horizontal strips.
I will use F and B for tuning the pipes to F#(Gmaj.) and Bb(Fmaj.) and of course, Cmaj. After cooling, the plugs can be forced out with the tuning rod. The plugs are prepared by Hot Glue gunning an O-ring around the plug inserting plug, then Hot Glue gunning more wax before pushing plugs in all the way in. Grease end of tubes then insert 1/2" x 1/2" plugs. Also, cut tubes 1/2" longer than needed so that the tuning plugs can be inserted. 1/2" dowel rod used to make tuning stick and plugs for tubes. I used pennies to seal the end of the tubes.
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